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Thanks for your comment yes that's another method James, I would keep the plaster board infill a bit smaller that the hole size though to give it more strength otherwise you will need to tape the joins. I don't think it is much quicker, whatever way you do it, it will take the setting time of one mix to do the job. As for being cleaner just depends how careful you are. There is one down side of using tape is that you have to float it out on to the paint further, and plaster is not really designed to stick to paint. The way I did it you only need to feather over onto the paintwork.

Just seems like a lot of compound basically hanging from that otherwise unsecured piece of drywall in the ceiling. Have you ever recreated that repair in the shop on a bench so you could weigh it? Bet it's heavy.

Welcome

No John that is the strongest way to do it, makes the section double thickness, It is the same as back blocking a join from above.bridging the plaster hole from above.

It sure you will be able to make yourself you would have to find a company that makes them I think

@@NeilCokerPlaster acctually i need to make cabinet like this for my big examination

@@nurnajwa603 I see you will have to maybe contact a company to get some parts and maybe they will help with the workings. I just saw these cabinets on a job I was doing the plastering on and thought they were pretty good, good luck.

Not necessary pushing the plaster in between will hold it all together.

Welcome, good to hear that all the best

Thanks mate :)

You are right she is a grand old lady, probably 1890's designed by the famous architect John Beswicke

Ooooh thanks a lot!!

Fabian Reese I am in Melbourne Australia, where are you

Nz i work for plaster Craft 2000 LTD

Fabian Reese nice to hear

Thanks would be interested to see your products,

Thanks Mick, probably how you mixed it, put the water in the container and sprinkle the Cornice Cement into the water when it starts to float on the surface let it soak for about 5 minutes, then mix without over mixing adding any more powder to get the consistency right. The more mixing you do the quicker it will set. You can get 60 minute Cornice Cement also but best to try that way of mixing first. Good luck Neil

mick falvey good mate all the best with it

Good luck

Thanks Zeta :)

No it is not necessary to put any bonding agent on the brickwork, I use about 60% CSR Stopping Plaster with triple wash white sand,it sticks very well to the brick work. The stopping plaster has some additives, if you are using a more simple plaster would be good to add a bit of lime with it. These standards are similar to what I work to : Solid Plaster Wall Repairs, Australian Standards CA.27 -1959

Welcome Zeta, thanks for your wishes, all the best Neil

Sí, tienes razón, te ayudará. Creo que el terreno era inestable o había problemas con los fouindations. El hombre ha vendido el buildinding ahora sabía que tenía problemas. Gracias y todo lo mejor Neil

ser albañil el primer oficio del hombre con tus manos haces milagros mucho y buen trabajo para ti compañero

Si usted inserta las varillas en el ladrillo cortando el ladrillo, ayudará a asegurar el piso superior, que será un beneficio. A continuación, pondrá más estrés en otras partes de la pared. En la planta baja, con todo el peso sobre, todavía habrá movimiento. Normalmente, si la persona quiere ir a esa medida de tener su edificio fijo que tendrá apoyo en los cimientos. Gracias por tu aportación.

refuerce los cimientos hay muchas formas de hacerlo las grietas son muy peligrosas

Sí hay muchas maneras de arreglar el problema, dependiendo de cuánto el cliente quiere gastar también. Normalmente, la gente subyace a las bases aquí en Australia. A veces una malla de acero se utiliza en un área también. No he oído hablar de las barras de hierro de 10 mm que usted ha mencionado que se puso en antes. Gracias por compartir esa idea. La mayoría de los edificios antiguos aquí el render es mortero de cal, yo uso fina arena blanca para que coincida con el mortero de cal que hace que sea más fácil de reparar si se agrieta de nuevo. He visto trabajo de reparación de crack, alrededor de una mezcla más difícil, que se puso en una pared de mortero de cal. Trato de abrir las grietas en el ladrillo también para firmar los ladrillos de nuevo. Gracias y todo lo mejor Neil

No need for PVA Steven, there were probably a lot of cracks repaired before PVA was invented. Wetting the bricks will help with slowing the setting time. and get rid of the dust. The drying time of the may take 3 or 4 days. Nothing will stop it cracking in the future if the foundations move. I use CSR Stopping Plaster and and fine white sand for the mix and it works fine without PVA. I do not know what material you are using.

Welcome, I am glad the video helped you learn a lot, nice to hear, all the best Neil :)

Hi Michael the plaster section would have been made with casting plaster and stuck up with CSR Cornice Cement 45 all the best Neil

Thanks Ricky :)

The render I have put on will firm the brick wall up, it is very rarely that we will take any bricks out. I usually open the mortar up between the bricks a bit before I put the render if they are loose.

Welcome Bridget, good luck with it

Hi Michael if I am putting screws into cornice, I do not drill pilot holes, sometimes I will use the drill head that I am using to put the screws in with to pre counter sink with depends a bit on the particular cornice you are using to how the screws go in sometimes they will bed in quite nicely, but there is no set rule.

hi i am using CSR Cornice Cement and what is called a small tool, to do them with.

Hi Michael, no that will be very good for doing the cornice mitres, CSR Cornice Cement 45 will work well. Casting plaster is used for making the cornice. www.gyprock.com.au/Pages/Products/Adhesives-Sealants/Cornice-Cement-45.aspx Good Luck

Mercie beaucoup:)

Hi I think just the nature of the plaster here, I use CSR Cornice Cement which you can cut back as it is setting and when it is hard I Polish it off with water. The old style stopping plasters were that we used to trowel up plasterboard were the same too except they would not stick to the paint well. Finding the right material, as to what it is available where you are, is very helpful.

Welcome, all the best

No PVA Chris, sand and plaster for render and CSR Cornice Cement for the white set coat.

Hi Brian depends how big the wave is, if it is going to noticeable when painted and if you think it needs doing.. If it is on drywall plasterboard,fibrous plaster, lath and plaster or solid plaster it can be fixed if warranted by floating the wall or the section, but it is a fair bit of work. Nothing is 100% perfect in the building trade, but it is good to have things at an acceptable level.

if you mean a way wall for running the cornice, most of the walls in old houses will be reasonably straight. A wall needs to be straight if you are running a moulding on it or else it will be noticeable.

if you mean a way wall for running the cornice, most of the walls in old houses will be reasonably straight. A wall needs to be straight if you are running a moulding on it or else it will be noticeable.

Thanks Brian glad you like the craftsmanship, and I appreciate your advice about the camera work, I will look into the technique, and keep working at it all the best Neil

Hi Lynette, glad you like the videos, I have one on my face book page of matching textures facebook.com/Hawthorn-Plaster-Repairs-154105617959545/?hc_ref=PAGES_TIMELINE&fref=nf If you email me with a photo of the texture maybe I can help neilkcoker@gmail.com All the best Neil

it is sort of a bit of both I guess, "solid plastering and drywall" usually if it not too big an area I will float and polish that area I can get a better job by doing that. That particular job had a top coat put on, but still with a lot of floating. In England they do a lot of floating the whole walls and ceilings over dry lining. All the best Neil

Yes it is good fun plastering doesn't feel like work, but more like artwork, good to hear what you have been doing it is good fun skimming and polishing. I have done a lot of joint compounding over the years too, not too keen on all the dust these days, from the sanding off though and having to go back again to the job when the work is dry to sand it. All the best

Thanks :) hope to get some more videos up there soon, all the best Neil

it is all plastering, some more traditional and some more modern. The modern way is to lay two base coats on and a top coat that is produced to be able to sand. The traditional way was to lay the mix on, trowel into shape as it is setting, give it a scrape back then polish it off, with no sanding. With dry lining we trowel finished it and polished it off with stopping plaster till pre-mixed top coats and base bonds came out and were generally used. Skimming a wall is just going a lot further, instead of just doing the join you skim the whole lot and get the same texture all over the wall or ceiling which is a lot of work. You can also skim with a vinyl top coat giving it three coats and sanding it off. A level 5 finish the top grade on plasterboard is hard to get. In England still a lot of floating and skimming the entire wall or ceiling is still done. Plasterboard has been around a long time but not in general use till the 1960"s In the early 1900"s they has small squares of plasterboard, which I assume was completely floated and polished off.

Hi if you put some of the cornice cement behind the original sheet and onto the backing sheet will be okay. Or push the plaster into the crack so it gets in behind the sheet. We used to do fibrous plaster this way on a ceiling that could not be scrimmed, we used to open the ceiling join up, cleat it and push plaster right in up and over the joins then take the cleats off. There are times when tape is good too. But generally better not to have to build up too much when floating on to paintwork, although the CSR Cornice Cement soes stick quite well to the paint, I do not want to build up on to the paintwork unnecessarily. All the best Neil

I am using CSR Stopping Plaster with triple wash white sand, it does not work as well with all plasters, that plaster is off the market now. Later when i finish my stock I will have look around for another. Hard plaster, with some lime may also work

Thanks mate :)

Hi mate, most of them I have to quote, you are right it is a challenge trying to work out what could happen with them, but I have a reasonable idea after doing quite a few of them. Tapping the lime mortar, to see how drummy it is and how far the cracks may open up to. Lath and plaster done in the late 1800's to early 1900's is usually better quality than that done in the 1920's. When quoting I usually say what I have allowed for, and if something comes up where a new ceiling would be better that would be something that was not allowed for and be extra.

It was an interesting one :)

Thanks, for that, yes not many people doing solid plastering anymore and is becoming lost but it is very satisfying doing the solid

Melbourne Australia

Thanks Vincennes :)

Thanks Vincennes :)

Thanks Vincennes :)